A short history of Cerro Torre, the most controversial mountain

4 days ago

Cerro Torre, a 3128-meter mountain in Patagonia, has been controversial for over 50 years, especially regarding climbing ethics and 'fair means'.
In 1959, Italian climber Cesare Maestri claimed the first ascent with Toni Egger, but it is disputed due to lack of evidence and later findings on adjacent Torre Egger.
In 1970, Maestri used a compressed air drill to place hundreds of bolts, creating the 'Compressor Route', which offended purists as it altered the mountain's natural challenge.
In January 2012, American climbers Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk ascended the Southeast Ridge in 13 hours without using bolts and removed 125 bolts on descent, erasing the Compressor Route and sparking debate.
The debate centers on climbing purity: whether bolts are acceptable or constitute unfair aid, with opinions divided on their removal and the ethics of permanent modifications.
The first undisputed ascent of Cerro Torre was in 1974 by an Italian team led by Casimiro Ferrari, while David Lama later achieved the first free climb of the Compressor Route without bolts.

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