Hanoi's humble beer glass and the memory of a nation

2 days ago

The Bia hơi served at Ba Dinh Sports Center is considered the freshest and best in Hanoi, often described as 'blood-cut', meaning it's poured immediately after brewing.
The Bia hơi cốc (glass) is a handmade, sturdy, blue-green tumbler made from recycled glass, designed in the 1970s by Le Huy Van to be affordable and functional.
Bia hơi and its glass emerged during Vietnam's subsidy era post-1975, aiming to make beer accessible as a morale booster, with the glass standardizing servings via ration tickets.
The glasses are produced in small workshops in Xôi Trì village, using traditional glassblowing techniques, with only three families continuing the craft despite challenges like heat and lack of interest from younger generations.
Despite economic reforms and globalization, the cốc has remained unchanged for over 50 years, resisting standardization and mass production due to its low cost and imperfections, which also make it difficult to replicate commercially.
The cốc has cultural significance, symbolizing Hanoi's working-class sociability, and is used in craft beer bars and design collections, though its affordability and everyday use are threatened by rising alcohol taxes and changing consumption patterns.
Designer Le Huy Van, now in his 80s, reflects that the cốc 'belongs to the people', and while its future is uncertain, it persists as a humble object intertwined with Vietnam's history and daily life.

Hasty Briefsbeta