Tracing Chinese Immigration Through Food (2023)

3 hours ago

The article explores the cultural and historical significance of chop suey, a dish that symbolizes Chinese American identity and immigration history.
The author attempts to recreate chop suey with her mother, connecting with her late grandfather's legacy as a restaurateur in Canada.
Chop suey's origins are murky, with various myths surrounding its creation, but it became a staple in North American Chinese restaurants by the mid-20th century.
The dish reflects the adaptation of Chinese cuisine to Western tastes, often criticized as inauthentic but vital for the survival of Chinese immigrants.
The decline of chop suey-style restaurants is noted, with newer generations favoring more traditional or innovative Chinese American cuisine.
Modern Chinese American restaurants, like Bonnie's and Potluck Club, reinterpret traditional dishes, blending Cantonese flavors with American influences.
The article concludes by reflecting on the complexity of Chinese American identity and cuisine, emphasizing that authenticity is multifaceted and personal.

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