The purist's guide to phở in Hanoi
8 hours ago
- #food culture
- #culinary tradition
- #Vietnamese cuisine
- The article honors phở in Hanoi and three writers (Thạch Lam, Vũ Bằng, Nguyễn Tuân) who celebrated it with wit and devotion.
- Phở's origins are debated, with theories linking it to Chinese ngưu nhục phấn or French pot-au-feu, but Vietnamese scholars suggest it evolved from xáo trâu (buffalo stew) at Red River docks in early 1900s.
- A Purist values simplicity in phở, rejecting luxury ingredients like Kobe beef or edible gold leaf, and prefers modest cuts like chín (well-done brisket), nạm (flank), or gầu (fatty brisket).
- Acceptable variations include phở gà (chicken phở), phở sốt vang (wine-braised beef), and phở áp chảo (pan-fried noodles), but experimental versions (e.g., salmon or lobster phở) are frowned upon.
- The broth is crucial: clear, fragrant with spices like star anise and ginger, and guarded as a secret by phở masters; condiments like lime, chili, or quẩy (fried breadstick) should be used sparingly.
- Finding a favorite phở requires patience and exploration in Hanoi, with clues like busy shops, serious vendors, and aromatic broth; personal devotion matters more than 'best' claims.
- Phở shops often have simple, one-syllable names (e.g., Phở Thìn) or location-based nicknames (e.g., Hospital Phở), avoiding grand or flamboyant titles.
- Purists don't care about luxurious surroundings; plastic stools and grumpy vendors are fine if the phở is excellent, emphasizing the food over ambiance.
- Morning and night phở are preferred over afternoon servings; eating phở is a focused activity, not for chitchat, and should be done quickly but respectfully.
- Purists worry about phở's future, with younger generations preferring ramen or diet trends, but hope classics by Thạch Lam, Nguyễn Tuân, and Vũ Bằng will preserve its legacy.