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Refactoring cuisine: how an Iraqi stew sailed to Singapore

3 days ago
  • The author makes bamya assam, a sweet-and-sour okra stew using calamansi, a Philippine lime.
  • The dish originates from Iraqi Jewish bamya, modified in India by local cooks, then adapted in Singapore.
  • The Ship of Theseus paradox illustrates how diaspora cooking evolves through ingredient substitutions.
  • Foreign domestic workers from the Philippines and Indonesia often cooked the stew in Singaporean households.
  • Authenticity is defined by adaptation and family history, not static tradition.